LIFE IN GULU

(Note to my "commentors"--see below)

Well, …
I’ve met a LOT of people—Americans and Ugandans.
Everyone is INCREDIBLY nice.
Ugandans have gorgeous smiles and make you feel right at home.

AND I AM SO SORRY MY PHOTOS WON'T UPLOAD--I've got some priceless ones (you know the kind that paints a 1000 words). I'm going to try plan B next: e-mail them to Leo and see if he can publish them for me...patience! UPDATE: He's done it. Enjoy the pictures.

And btw, I got my luggage (10 days later) so I’m now wearing my own clothes.

Our stay in Gulu started with a few days of meetings, mingled with outings. The meetings were so informative and interesting, but the details would bore you. However, here’s one piece of interesting information:
IC plans on launching their latest program—the handbag project--in Jan. ’09. In short, they would like to create a retail line of handbags with sourced materials. This would provide employment mainly for child mothers (some who were abducted as young as 12 years old) who are often stigmatized and unable to return to formal education. Their idea is to train the mothers and also create a non-formal educational program for them and their children. By the way guys, they are creating messenger bags for men, too!

Among our outings we went to St. Jude’s, the only orphanage in Gulu because normally the community takes care of its orphans. Often family or neighbors will take children all or part of the time if one or both parents are dead or unable to take care of them. Of course, the kids were adorable. As soon as we got out of the vehicle, we were overwhelmed with the smaller ones wanting to be picked up and held. I was peed on, drooled on and had little fingers put in my mouth, and an infant boy fell asleep in my arms. They sang for us (and we sang to them). We played games with the bigger kids for a couple of hours—hopefully my photos will upload and you’ll see how precious they are. . .

THE TEACHING ASSIGNMENT

I am assigned to an all boys’ boarding school, team teaching English and possibly French and religious studies. There are about 850 students at Sir Samuel Baker school, named after the explorer who came to Uganda in the mid 1800’s. Samuel Baker is also called “the beautiful one” by the Acholi because he helped them rise up against the slave traders (the Arabs from the north) to eradicate slave trade altogether.

My main teacher, Elizabeth, is absolutely awesome. We met for the first time last Friday over dinner and connected right away. She is an incredible person. Twice when we parted (taking separate boda bodas to our homes), it started to rain. She called me to find out if I made it okay—and did I get very wet? I had told her that my baggage was missing, and the next time I saw her, she had a dress made for me so I would have something to wear! Her kindness overwhelms me. She knows I am vegetarian but asked me if I would eat chicken if she slaughtered one for me (this is an honor reserved for special guests). Apparently, they put the gallbladder on top of the served dish, (to prove that the meat is fresh) and this delicacy is reserved for the guest (!). I’m trying to prepare myself for that one!

LRA ON THE MOVE

Maybe you have heard, but peace talks officially ended Monday this week. Kony refused to sign and has even decided to recant some of his earlier promises. The LRA is on the move again: they left the game park in Congo where they were staying and have apparently abducted 500 people from the northeast Congo region—(2/3 are adults and young males). They have moved into southern Sudan and plan to attack the SPLA (armed wing of government in Sudan). It seems he is turning into some kind of regional war lord. This is what we were told on Tuesday.

However during our sports day on Wednesday, my teacher pointed out Youssef Adek (Kony’s right-hand man) visiting with some of the male teachers. She said he is tolerated/liked in some parts of the Gulu region because during the LRA raids, his village (close to where we are staying) was not raided and apparently he also protected many children under his own roof. He also made sure that St. Jude’s was not attacked. The government won’t touch him because he is the only man from the outside that can communicate with Kony. So he is able to move freely in and out of both camps.

There is more army presence in Gulu (which is good). One boda boda driver told someone here that Kony’s in Kitgoum (about 100 k from here), but that could be a rumour.

On the funny side: two days ago, I noticed the headlines on one newspaper “Josef Kony dead—committed suicide” When I asked the man reading the paper, he laughed and explained that the Red Pepper is their version of National Enquirer.

UGANDAN SONG AND DANCE

Last Monday was a holiday, and we woke up to the sound of drums. We followed our ears and came upon a group of kids practicing their traditional dance called the “Bwola.” It was funny to see them all in western dress. Dance seems to bring out the best in them—they are obviously having a great time.

During the sports day at school, they played a lot of music—some African—from Uganda, Zaire, Congo, etc. and a lot of American and British music (all types—even religious and country—Michael W. Smith is popular here! One of the teacher’s brother is a famous Ugandan songwriter and singer, and they played one of his songs. Okello (the brother) told me what it said: “Don’t spoil my name (I think meaning my reputation). My name is my wealth and it will serve both you and me.” Another one in Lwo kept repeating the word “superglue.” Someone told me it said that “Girls stick to boys like superglue” and I guess the singer wanted to be that superglue?? Not exactly sure if I got it right.

SURVIVING THE BODABODA EXPERIENCE

Boda bodas are motorbikes that will transport you anywhere under any conditions--really. Same driving conditions as explained in my first entry: they speed ahead, honking and hoping that people will move. Sometimes we are so close to the vehicle coming toward us on our right (or to the bicycle or pedestrian on the left), I expect my knees or elbows to hit something. In a skirt (which is proper attire when attending school), I ride side saddle. By no means does one hold on to the driver, but to the bar at the back of the bike if necessary.

Once we were riding two behind the driver (and it was pouring rain). We were slip sliding all over the red-mud roads. At one point when turning left, the back wheel slid right and I felt as though I was about to fall over so, without thinking, I grabbed the driver around the waist. I wanted to excuse myself in Lwo, so I said, “akara akara” and both the driver and the person riding behind me broke out laughing. Apparently I had confused the right expression, “araka, araka” with the one for a courtship dance! We had a good time with this story over supper that evening.

I started a blog on school life which I hope to publish by the beginning of next week if all goes well!

Comments to my commentors:
Mary Jane--Thanks for your prayers. There are times I know someone has to be praying for me! I hope you're enjoying your summer and especially that Ryan's wedding went superbly! Love, L.
Leo--We've said it all over a chat--don't forget to get that Ugandan address for me! I'm going to try to send you photos via email for you to publish for me...let's see if that works! Love you muchoooooo. yomama
David--hey, thanks for taking care of the household and bill-paying stuff. I have absolutely NO worries, knowing you're in charge 'cause you're sooo responsible. I love you! Mama
Robby--hey I texted you along with David, George, and Carl, but David tells me he didn't get his. I'm going to complain to the company! Thanks for all your encouragement--I hope all at CA's going okay! Mme. M.
Bryana--I miss you--hope camp is going well--I wish I had one of your red curly hairs with me! Love, Mom
Carl--Merci de ton poste! Tu me manque beaucoup aussi, mais je chante cette chanson dans ma tete souvent quand je suis sur le bodaboda. Je vis comme un islander-- vraiement-- heureusement tu m'as bien prepare a l'avance pour ca! Tu aimerais la vie ici--en effet, je te trouve tres africain! Je t'aime beaucoup! Maman